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It is critical to ensure all parts of your scuba equipment are dependable and fully functional, a minor failure can have grave consequences.
Keeping equipment functional and safe
Good care and maintenance of your diving equipment can result in many benefits. Among the most important are the assurance of your personal safety, protection of your equipment investment, personal enjoyment underwater and extending the life of your dive gear.
Although diving equipment manufacturers design and construct dive gear to be rugged and long lasting, they cannot prevent abuse or neglect. The following are just a few typical examples resulting from poorly maintained equipment:
- A broken fin strap.
- Sand or corrosion which jams open a BCD or dry suit inflator. Resulting in fast ascents.
- A neglected or poorly maintained regulator can result in a first stage pressure leak that causes free flowing.
- A regulator mouthpiece breaking or holed, causing water to enter the airway.
- Sand clogged in the exhalation valve, causing flooding of the second stage.
- A poorly maintained depth gauge can give a false reading.
- An exhausted battery can cause a dive computer to stop working in the middle of a dive.
- Torch flooding.
- Valves that won't turn on or off.
- Zips that stick or break.
Sources of Damage
Before you can begin to care for your dive gear properly, you must be aware of the many different sources of damage that can cause equipment malfunction, deterioration or breakage. These include:
- Sea water - Ocean water contains a variety of salts, iodine and other minerals that can cause clogging, jamming or deterioration of your equipment. This is especially true of moving metal parts such as power inflators, regulators, zips, hose connectors etc. These dissolved minerals can be quite corrosive.
- Chlorine - Chlorine and mild acids are added to swimming pool water to retard bacteria, fungus or algae growth. Unfortunately, these chemicals can be highly destructive to dive equipment. All dive gear used in swimming pools should be thoroughly soaked in clean, freshwater to remove any chlorine or acid residue.
- Sunlight - Direct rays from tropical sun can be destructive to rubber or silicone products such as the face mask, fins, wetsuit and so on. For this reason, your dive gear should never be left on the open deck of a dive boat or beach. Strong and direct sunlight can also damage diving instruments such as computers, depth gauges and pressure gauges by overheating and distortion of O ring seals.
- Bacteria - Small amounts of water (fresh or salt) left inside BC bladders, masks, regulator second stages and dive suits can result in bacteria growth. There are many different strains of bacteria that can grow under these conditions and they can result in a variety of infections.
- Oxidation - Oxidation is a chemical reaction that results from the combining of air and water with a metal surface such as the inside of your scuba tank. If the tank is made of steel, this oxidation is more commonly known as rust. If the item is aluminium or some other metal, the oxidation is often referred to as corrosion. This is quite common in stab jacket emergency cylinders as they are frequently left unpressurised and absorb water as the pressure increases during the descent. This can be prevented or reduced by carefully washing and drying your equipment after use. It is particularly important to remove any water that might be trapped under the surface of a tank boot or other partly enclosed area. Internal oxidation in scuba tanks can be avoided by keeping a minimal amount of pressurised, dry air in the cylinder at all times.
- Sand and silt - As sand and silt particles are floating in suspension, they often find their way into the small crevices of such working parts as the BC power inflator, quick-snap hose connectors, the regulator second stage, the octopus second stage and the purge valve in a mask. Piled up sand or silt particles can cause such items to jam either shut or open, depending on the situation. Sand and silt particles are also a major menace to O ring seals on such items as dive lights, underwater cameras and strobes and piston type regulator first stages. The tiny sand or silt particles floating in the water tend to stick to the silicone grease on an O ring, causing a small build-up of residue that can eventually cause the O ring to leak.
- Battery failure - The small batteries that power dive lights, computers, watches and digital depth gauges will not last forever. Battery exhaustion is simply a question of when. Divers must be continually alert for low battery warnings or develop a routine for regular replacement or charging of batteries. If using dry cells, dead batteries should be removed as soon as possible, as they could begin to leak and cause internal corrosion. Batteries that can be removed by the user should be replaced between dive trips to avoid electrical shorts or leakage.
- Leakage or flooding - Water leakage or flooding can cause an equipment malfunction. This can be especially destructive if it occurs in sea water. Such leakage or flooding is often caused by an O ring seal failure on such items as a dive light, computer or camera that has a user replaceable battery. Owners must take special care in cleaning and lubricating O rings to remove any build-up of salt crystals, hairs, silt or sand residue. Care must also be taken in properly closing any O ring sealed battery compartment, as an ill-fitting O ring will cause immediate flooding.
- Electrical shorts - Electrical shorts are usually cause by dampness in such items as dive lights or computers.
- Equipment breakage - Although dive gear is designed to be tough and rugged, breakage does occur, owing to poor packing or disregard for the equipment. When traveling, dive masks should be packed in protective containers. Sensitive electronic instruments such as dive computers or digital depth gauges should also be packed in a padded, protective container. Cylinders, weight belts and people are the usual cause.
- Self induced - Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and other petroleum jellies can destroy masks and latex seals. Talcum powder can get into valves.
- Wear and tear - All equipment will experience normal wear and tear. Regulator mouthpieces will begin to deteriorate, neoprene wetsuits become stiff, swim fin blades begin to split, mask straps break, hose connectors leak etc. Careful inspection of your dive gear will often reveal signs of this type of wear. If detected, the item should be replaced before it breaks.
Mask Fins and Snorkel
Mask
Ensure your mask is kept out of strong sunlight. It should be soaked (not just rinsed) at the end of a dive trip and fully dried in the shade (no direct sunlight). It should be stored in a crush proof container for travel, in order to prevent face plate breakage or cracking. Some manufacturers include a plastic storage box with the sale of every mask. This box also keeps your mask safe from rodents or insects that seemed to have developed a taste for silicone.
Check your mask strap and mask skirt for cuts, tears or cracking, especially around the buckle areas.
Fins
Fins are probably the most durable components of your dive gear. Fins should be rinsed in clean, freshwater and dried in the shade. The best way to store fins is to lie them flat so that the blade is not bent or curled. Plastic stiffeners placed in the foot pocket help keep the pocket from collapsing when stored or transported.
Prior to diving, your fins should be inspected in several places.
- Open heel fins - Check the heel straps for tears or cracking--especially in the buckle area. Check the buckle assembly to make sure the swiveling pin is firmly anchored in position. Check the blades and spines for splitting
- Full foot fins - Check the heel and the toe area of the foot pocket for cracks or tears. Check the blades and spines for splitting
Snorkel
Simply rinse and check any valves.
Cylinders
Cylinder testing is a legal requirement and you find it extremely hard to get an air fill unless your cylinders are in test. There are two types of mandatory test:
- Hydrostatic - this is a full test that must be undertaken every 4 years and includes pressure testing.
- Visual - this is a mandatory visual inspection both externally and internally every two years.
Most cylinders are 'die' stamped on the shoulder of the cylinder.
There are many testing stations around and not all are associated with dive shops. Prices can vary widely so shop around.
Reduce cylinder valve damage
Be sure not to drop your cylinder particularly on the valves. Lie cylinders down whenever unattended and make sure they can't roll. If possible fit plastic carry handles around cylinder neck.
Prior to use always check the O ring.
Regulators
Wash regulators thoroughly as it is important to remove all salt from inside. Remember when salt-water dries the remaining salt crystals are very sharp.
Regulators - After each day of diving, the regulator must be cleaned, inspected and prepared for the next use or for storage. As soon as the first stage is removed from the SCUBA cylinder, reinstall the dust cap over the regulator inlet port. This cap is normally attached to the regulator yoke and therefore has been under water. Be sure to blow out the water in this cap before securing it over the inlet port. Ensure that the O-ring is in place inside the dust cap.
As soon as possible after diving, the regulator must be soaked in warm tap water, for a short period of time, to remove salt and mineral deposits. It's not much use hosing through the exhaust vents as these are blocked by non-return valves. The only way to get fresh water inside the valve is by pumping it gently into the mouthpiece. Be very careful NOT to depress the purge button, or leave the dust cap off when the regulator is submerged in water. This is likely to result in water entering both regulator stages, which could result in internal corrosion. Shake dry and wipe the regulator's exterior with a clean cloth. Store the regulator in a cool, dry place with a large loop in the hoses.
Servicing
Regulators should be serviced every year or when one of the following situations occurs:
- There is visible damage to the regulator, such as cracked hoses or mouthpieces, or a discoloured inlet filter.
- It does not breathe as easily as it should.
- You suspect, for any reason, that the regulator is malfunctioning.
Dry suits
Latex seals can perish easily. The main reasons for this are skin oils, perfumed talcum powder, exposure to sun and leaving them salty during storage.
Wash thoroughly inside and out with mild detergent. Rinse with plenty clean water. Dry carefully then treat surfaces, ideally with special silicone treatment ('Aquasure' seems good), or at least with unperfumed talc to reduce welding.
If you are going to dry your suit on hangers, it is extremely important that you use an extra wide hanger. If narrow or wood hangers are used, the suit will be damaged due to excessive pressure. After the suit has dried, the zipper should be lubricated with bees wax
Stab jackets
Stab jackets are rarely dry; with warmth they soon collect organic matter, which is ideal for bacterial growth. This can cause problems such as chest infections, if you breathe from your jacket in an emergency or in a drill. After every trip wash out the stab jacket with clean water and a diluted disinfectant. Use the solution recommended by your stab jacket suppliers.
In a salt water environment, it is also extremely important to flush all the salt out of the jacket before it dries and forms salt crystals. These can cut the bladder, diminishing its ability to provide buoyancy. Depress the oral inflator button and allow warm water to flow into the jacket until it is about 20% full. Make sure that the entire bladder is fully rinsed by rotating and tilting the jacket is varying directions. Open the valve and allow the water to flow out. Before all the water is drained, taste it. If salt is present or the water is not clear, drain and repeat the rinsing procedure.
Rinse the exterior thoroughly in warm water, paying particular attention to push button valves and the oral inflator, and make certain they are operating freely. With the bladder bag, rinse the zipper while moving the slide back and forth about 2" otherwise it may freeze shut with salt corrosion. Spray it with silicone after it dries. Spray the outside of the power inflator hose with silicone. This will help prevent the hose from deteriorating. (Be careful to avoid spraying silicone on plastic parts).
Knives
All stainless steel knives will show some signs of rust due to their iron content. After each use, rinse well with fresh water and dry outside of its sheath. Coat the blade with a light layer of oil or silicone.
O Rings
'O' rings can be found in all sorts of diving equipment such as regulators, cameras, lights and computers. Their main function is either to seal air or water. They only cost a few pence yet their function is vital, malfunction can threaten your safety and possibly cost you hundreds of pounds in repair or replacement costs. Follow these tips to ensure their ongoing performance:
- Be aware of where the 'O' rings are and ensure you always have spares.
- Replace them periodically, even if they look ok.
- Remove the 'O' ring with a thin, blunt tool, never a sharp or pointed tool.
- Use a cotton swab stick to remove lubricant and dirt from the 'O' ring seat. Inspect the groove for irregularities or burrs.
- Remove the old lubricant on the 'O' ring with a paper towel. Inspect the 'O' ring carefully for cracks, scratches and drying. Replace if damaged.
- Re-lubricate the O-ring with a very thin coating by pulling it through your greased thumb and index finger. Re-place the 'O' ring carefully, remember 1 hair or 1 particle of dirt could render the 'O' ring useless.
- Whenever you replace an 'O' make sure you use the exact size and thickness.
- To help them keep their shape and elasticity, remove O-rings before storing equipment.
- Store greased O-rings in plastic bags with the equipment so you remember to re-install them.
Avoid physical damage to your equipment
Unfortunately this happens all too frequently; typical causes are damage by cylinders and weight belts or rough handling. Reduce these incidents by:
- As soon as possible after the dive put your equipment away, replace your mask in its protective box and protect that vulnerable dive computer.
- In a car pack your equipment on top of cylinders and make sure they can't roll about.
- Make sure cylinders are lashed to the RIB all the time
Avoid theft, loss and damage of equipment
Unfortunately this happens both deliberately and innocently. There are a number of things you can do to reduce the risk of loss and increase your chances of getting it back:
- Clearly mark your equipment with your name and telephone number, use indelible ink.
- Record equipment reference/serial/ID numbers and dates of purchase.
- Get yourself a checklist (see appendix A) and check your equipment in and out every day.
- If you lend equipment to someone, write it down, it is so easy to forget.
- Never leave equipment unattended.
- Avoid leaving equipment exposed in cars particularly overnight.
- Get your equipment insured properly.
- If traveling abroad, keep expensive items with you.
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