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Knowing how to tie a few basic knots is essential to divers diving from Ribs or hard boats particularly for putting together the shot line and mooring the boat. The art of knot tying is known as "Marlinspike".
Introduction
Boat divers will need to be able to tie these 7 basic knots Tie each knot several times to make a mental picture of the sequence. With practice you'll be able to tie each knot without thinking about it.
Round Turn & Two Half Hitches
This reliable knot is quickly tied and is the hitch most often used in mooring. To tie:
- Pass end of rope around post or other object.
- Wrap short end of rope under and over long part of rope, pushing the end down through the loop. This is a half hitch.
- Repeat on long rope below first half hitch and draw up tight.
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Bowline
This knot doesn't jam or slip when tied properly. To tie:
- Make the overhand loop with the end held toward you, then pass end through loop.
- Now pass end up behind the standing part, then down through the loop again.
- Draw up tight.
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Figure Eight
This knot is ideal for keeping the end of a rope from running out of tackle or pulley. To tie:
- Make underhand loop, bringing end around and over the standing part.
- Pass end under, then up through the loop.
- Draw up tight.
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Reef or Square Knot
This knot is used at sea in reefing and furling sails. To tie:
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Pass left and over and under right end.
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Curve what is now the left end toward the right and cross what is now the right end over and under the left.
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Draw up tight.
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Anchor Bend
This knot is used to secure a rope or a line to an anchor. To tie:
- Pass two loops through ring.
- Place free end around standing line.
- Pass free end through loops.
- Complete by making half hitch
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Clove Hitch
This knot is the "general utility" hitch for when you need a quick, simple method of fastening a rope around a post, spar or stake. To tie:
- Make a turn with the rope around the object and over itself.
- Take a second turn with the rope around the object.
- Pull the end up under the second turn so it is between the rope and the object. Tighten by pulling on both ends.
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Coiling Ropes
Almost all laid or twisted ropes that you are likely to come across are said to be 'right hand laid'. This means that if you try to coil them anti-clockwise, they form figures of eight. The moral therefore is always coil ropes clockwise. Once the coil is formed, leave about 1.5m (5ft) to wrap around the coil about three times, pulling a loop through the gap above the wrappings and over the top of the coil. When the loose end is pulled, the coil keep its form and can be stored away.
Securing to a cleat
It is important to take one complete turn around a cleat or bollard before starting the figures of eight. A twisted turn on the last one secures the end. The initial complete turn will ensure that the rope cannot jam itself onto the cleat and makes it easier to remove.
Mooring
When mooring and putting eyes over a bollard, thread them through each other then they can be released in any order.
Terminology
Other terminology you might encounter:
- Standing Part is the main part of a line.
- Bitter end is the end that you work with to make knots
- Bight is the middle of line, loop or curve.
- Bends joins two lines of unequal thickness.
- Hitches join lines to ring, post, bollards or very thick rope.
- You belay line onto a cleat
- Seizing is to hold two ropes or two parts of same rope together.
- Worming Parceling and Serving is used to protect ends of a rope.
- Marline Spike or Fid is a conical piece of wood to aid splicing.
- Hawser is a rope of 5-24 inch diameter.
- Reeve is to pass a rope through an opening hole or block.
- Toggle is a wooden pin in the end of lashing to act as a stopper.
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