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Weather and Tides

Using and looking after the club RIB

Becoming a competent boat handler is no easy task and takes knowledge, skills training and experience.

Introduction

Club boats are a valuable asset and must be used and stored properly.

Prior to getting boat

• Ensure the DO and Boat Officer is aware of the plans.
• Get the boat keys, electronics, oxygen and first aid kit.
• Ensure that whoever is towing is experienced and insured.

Preparing the boat

• Hook up the trailer and connect the power for the rear lights.
• Connect braking cable.
• Remove trailer wheel clamp.
• Remove wheel blocks and trailer supports.
• Jack up jockey wheel.
• Manoeuvre the boat out - freeing stuck brakes.
• Raise engine as soon as possible.
• Check:
  • Tyres - inflated (30 psi) and tread.
  • Spare wheel.
  • Trailer brakes.
  • Boat is secure.

Hitching and towing

Please note the speed limit is 60mph on motorways, 50mph other roads. Towers cannot use outside lane of motorway if other lanes in service. Make sure the rear number plate is fixed and if possible get a clip-on extension wing mirror to see behind you properly.

• Align boat to tow bar, jack up jockey wheel, position over ball.
• Insert trailer key, turn and pull to release lock.
• Ensure that the metal pin is pulled out.
• Ensure trailer is secured to tow bar.
• Retract jockey wheel as far as possible.
• Fit emergency brake - cable over tow bar.
• Connect trailer board cable and test towing lights.
• Erect 'A' frame and attach trailer board.
• Ensure correct rear number plate is shown.
• Raise engine fully and engage engine support mounts.
• Check tie down lines x 2 at stern and check secure flat ribbon connection at bow.
• Check RIB tubes are inflated. The RIB has multi-compartment tubes with one valve for each compartment. It is important to make sure all the compartments are inflated evenly. Inflating one compartment will bend the internal walls between compartments outwards causing a strain on the joints and making other compartments look inflated. If the RIB is cold don't fully inflate as the tubes heat up in the sun they may become over inflated.
• Don't overfill the boat and secure all equipment in it. It is more stable when towing if the nose of the trailer is heavy, so put heavier equipment in the bow of the boat.
•  Place orange bag securely over propeller.

After a mile or two of towing it is a good idea to stop and check the wheel bearing of the trailer to ensure they are not too hot. Proceed only if they are ok.

Equipment checklist

• Black box containing: boat keys - isolator, hitch lock, ignition, dead mans handle, wheel clamp lock, Allan key, GPS/Sounder & EPIRB.
• Fuel tanks - 2 metal and 2 plastic containers (spare), spare connection tube.
• Spare engine oil.
• A flag.
• Anchor and 50m line (warp) and buoy.
• Oxygen equipment.
• Jump leads.
• Siphon tube.
• First aid kit (boat box).
• Toolkit (boat box).
• Flare pack (boat box), check they are still in date and not damp.
• Pump/bellows for tubes and the inflation hose.
• Oars.
• Oxygen equipment.
• Wheel-jack and nut wrench.
• Bucket/bailer, bilge pump.
• Mooring lines and spare ropes.
• Equipment for shot lines. Buoys (including tell tale buoy), ropes and shots.
• Buoyancy aids.

Prior to launching

• Disconnect and remove tailboard, stow in vehicle.
• Remove tie down straps at stern and propeller bag.
• Ensure draining plugs are inserted and elephant's trunk is up.
• Fit GPS and EPIRB.
• Erect 'A' frame and secure in place. Replace boat boxes.
• Ensure Painter is fixed to bow and not trailer.

Launching

As a general rule launch the boat with the least amount of equipment in it i.e., load the boat after the launch. Keep a close watch behind you when reversing, as there may be children around.

• Reverse onto slipway.
• Ensure engine is up and engine support mounts are disengaged.
• Disconnect the winch strap from the RIB.
• Reverse into water with the trailer to about 0.5m deep.
• Allow RIB to roll off - keep hold of painter.
• Ensure appropriate loading of equipment into boat.
• Stow trailer and fit wheel clamp.
• Engine starting procedure
• Ensure boat is in water deep enough for engine.
• Ensure engine is down sufficient engine is in enough water for cooling, but not deep enough to damage propeller.
• Ensure divers are clear.
• Check electrical isolator is ON.
• Check fuel level.
• Tilt engine down into water.
• Connect petrol line to engine.
• Open tank vents.
• Pump fuel bulb until bulb is hard.
• Ensure engine in neutral.
• Ensure dead mans handle is ON and fixed around leg.
• Choke (if required) switch up and hold.
• Put starting throttle to fully on.
• Turn ignition key to start engine.
• Reduce starting throttle control lever. DO NOT OVER-REV.
• Check the tell tales for good water spurt. Switch off immediately if they are not working otherwise the engine will become damaged.
• Reduce starting throttle when warm.
• Allow engine to warm up at idle for several minutes before moving off.

Leaving and approaching shore

Safety is paramount and must be the prime consideration. Proceed slowly and be careful of other surface traffic. Keep the passengers informed about changes in speed and direction etc. Always be aware of current, depth, underwater rocks, wind and the location of divers.

Avoid damage to the propeller

It is important when in shallow water to ensure the propeller is not damaged by rocks etc. Get to know the main channels from the slip to the sea and learn to read the water. Get advice from the locals and learn buoyage. In all circumstances, go slow and keep an eye on echo sounder and if gets below two metres or so take it very slowly, have someone on the bow of the boat looking for submerged rocks and divers.

Sudden shallows increase local wave height and often lead to them breaking. Once in shallows, don't rely on echo sounder to avoid propeller damage as the transducer is at rear of RIB so by time sounder screen shows too shallow, the propellers may already have hit the rocks. Partially raise the engine if need be but remember that it needs water to cool so not too much.

If the visibility is bad, have a probe (paddle/flag pole) in the water off the front to measure depth. As soon as lookout warns of shallows, shut down the throttle and take it out of gear.

Moving away from shore

• Make sure all divers are fully zipped up in their suits
• Visually check direction of engine.
• Cast off any mooring lines.
• Reverse away slowly out to sea - ensure water not coming over transom.
• Adjust engine tilt with increasing depth.
• Turn to face out to sea.
• Ensure any throttle is off and adjust steering so that when thrust is applied boat will move in intended direction.
• Put gently into forward - use only enough revs to maintain movement.
• Move slowly forward out to sea, adjust engine tilt with increasing depth.
• Before picking up speed - warn passengers & check everyone ready.
• Check water clearance and depth, increase throttle steadily to safe speed.
• Adjust position of passengers/adjust engine trim as required to assist getting the boat on the plane. When on the plane, throttle back.
• Advise the coastguard if appropriate.

Coming into shore

• Check water is clear and depth of water continuously.
• Reduce engine throttle gradually.
• Watch to ensure transom is not swamped - increase revs slightly if necessary to avoid this then throttle back again.
• Head into shore. Judge where slip/pontoon is; including any hidden obstacles.
• Adjust engine tilt to suit depth.
• Stopping - head into wind if possible, adjust throttle to slow speed. Put into neutral or reverse.
• Watch water/current, wind, and other obstacles/water users.
• Check attitude/direction of engine before engaging gear.

Coming along side

• Assess wind, current and other water users.
• Approach head on into wind if possible, reduce speed to slow.
• Turn slightly to one side and go into neutral.
• As nose approaches pontoon turn engine to opposite lock.
• At about 45 degrees engage reverse. Slowly adjust revs to stop forward motion and allow the boat to travel sideways.
• Increase revs as required to pull stern into pontoon.
• Cast mooring lines.

Mooring

• At slip/pontoon, adjust position of boat to ensure the rubbing strakes are taking any force.
• Tie painter and stern line onto pontoon.
• Check state of tide, account for any adjustment required.

Anchoring

• Adjust speed to slow down, turn boat into wind/tide and place into neutral.
• Ensure end of anchor line attached to boat, preferably at two points.
• Throw anchor off bow.
• Allow wind current to pull boat back - keep line slightly taught. Lay enough line for depth plus 50%.
• Check attachment of anchor is secure to boat.

Approaching buoys and divers

Approaching divers is a high risk activity; ensure a safe speed, watch divers and propeller, approach divers in neutral, careful of other surface traffic, avoid damage to propeller, keep passengers informed about changes in speed and direction etc. Always be aware of current, wind and location of divers.

Attaching to buoy

• Approach buoy from downwind/down tide (note - wind will probably have more influence).
• At slow speed, drive boat toward buoy.
• Leave buoy slightly to one side and you come along side and reduce revs as required.
• If too far to one side, once past, turn bows slightly across wind to allow the boat to drift down onto buoy.

Dropping divers

• Arriving at dive site, assess conditions i.e. wind, current, rocks, other obstacles. If other divers are present keep a safe distance away. Remember that divers may be some distance away from their SMB or bubbles if there is a current or wind.
• Plan exit route to minimise risk to divers, propeller, hull.
• At entry point, point boat into wind.
• Keep into wind as divers kit up - avoid going broadside to waves/swell and avoid divers inhalation of exhaust fumes.
• Give divers depth/other briefing information as required.
• Once divers are ready and buddy checks are complete position the boat as required. If there is a current drop the divers off up 4-5 metres up current so that they will have enough time to upright themselves and drift onto the shot line buoy.
• GO INTO NEUTRAL. Make sure there are no obstacles behind the divers and yell for them to go.
• Allow pairs on opposite side to enter water.
• Once divers in the water give OK signal.
• Do not allow other divers into water until water behind them is clear.
• If space allows, let boat drift off divers, otherwise, once divers are well clear of the boat engage gear and move away slowly.
• If divers miss the buoy and drift past it, do not just tow them back to it, it's too dangerous, get them back into the RIB and repeat the drop.
• Stay near site in case divers require further assistance.
• Check time and record on slate.
• Stand off, where you can see the bubbles or SMB's and where you are not looking into the sun.
• Display 'A' Flag.

Picking up divers

• Keep a good look out at all times. Divers surfacing at unexpected times are more likely to be having difficulties.
• Once divers are spotted give OK signal. Do not wait for acknowledgement before approaching.
• Assess conditions near divers i.e. wind, current, other divers, rocks, other obstacles.
• Plan exit route.
• If there is no wind, it is better if the divers separate and let the RIB go between them. That way there is more space to get them into RIB.
• If it is windy, get the divers on the same side of the boat so the RIB can approach up-wind to be blown toward the divers when put into neutral.
• If dive pair splits steer slowly between the two at low revs. Be ready to go into neutral.
• Once between divers GO INTO NEUTRAL.
• If divers are some distance apart keep the boat steady into wind as they approach, but make sure boat is in neutral as they come to the boat.
• If one diver/divers stay together, approach into wind.
• Once level/slightly past divers, turn bows slightly across wind go into neutral and allow boat to drift down onto divers.
• On completion take down 'A' Flag.

Recovering boat

• On the way back, make sure as much water is ejected out of the RIB as possible.
• Switch off the engine and tilt engine up.
• Remove heavy gear from the boat.
• Reverse trailer into water as deep as possible.
• Bring boat manually onto end of trailer.
• Undo winch tape and clip onto bow eye.
• Winch boat slowly onto trailer, ensuring that it is on symmetrically - keep tape flat on winch as winching takes place.
• If there is a steep/slippery slip:
   
  • Tie a long rope onto trailer main upright post and position vehicle to dry/flat part of slip.
  • Wrap rope around ball one and turn around rope 3-4 times.
  • One person stands well to one side holding rope taught whilst vehicle is moved slowly up the slip.
• Once the RIB is well out of water, block wheels and apply trailer brake. Hitch onto vehicle as normal.
• Drain water from the RIB by unscrewing the drainage plug at the base of the transom.
• Strap on the boat by ensuring winch straps are tight and bow eye is over front roller.
• Untie painter and stow under seat.
• Tie stern straps between transom eyes and trailer hooks at rear/underneath of trailer.
• Remove inappropriate equipment from the boat.
• Remove and stow GPS/EPIRB.
• Tilt main engine up and engage engine support mounts.
• Fit trailer board.
• Connect trailer board cable and test lights.
• Fit emergency brake (cable over tow bar).
• Place orange bag securely over propeller.
• Retrieve the RIB.

Storage procedure

• The RIB must be thoroughly washed before storing, use a garage jet wash. Pay particular attention to wheels, hubs and brakes. Put elephant trunk down and unplug drainage plugs whilst washing/towing.
• At the garage attach engine flushing gear and hose to main engine, ensure that water is running through this then start engine as normal. Ensure that stream of water is coming from engine casing - if this does not appear after about 5 seconds STOP engine immediately and check ears/hose is fitted properly.
• Once engine is running, unclip fuel line from engine and allow the engine to run dry.
• Replenish any fuel used and mix at 50:1 with 2-stroke oil. (Add 20mls of oil for every litre of fuel). This is important to refill tanks fully after every trip and it is the only fair way to make sure fuel costs apportioned to right divers. DO NOT PLACE UNMIXED FUEL IN THE BOAT.
• Remove any inappropriate equipment from the boat.
• Check boat, associated equipment & trailer for damage.
• Tilt down 'A' frame and replace bolts and wing nuts.
• Replace boat in garage (position as found) with engine fully down.
• Block wheels and ensure trailer supports are in place.
• Disconnect the tow bar and the brake cable.
• Replace wheel clamp.
• Do NOT leave handbrake on.
• Ensure all electrics are switched off.
• Ensure garage is secure and GPS, keys etc. removed from garage.
• Return keys etc. and report any damage / equipment used / issues to DO and Boat Officer.

Preparing a shot line

It is best to get this done before you leave the slip or harbour, Assess the likely depth of the wreck from the knowledge you have. If you're using a chart; don't forget that the depths marked are the Lowest Astronomical Tide (LAT) and you will have to add the tidal heights for a specific time to these figures.

Decide where you can shot the wreck e.g., the top, bow etc, and workout the vertical depth of line needed and then add about 10-15%. Measure this out and fix the main buoy at that point. If possible fix a smaller telltale buoy. Fix the shot or grapple to the other end with slightly weaker line so that if shot jams, only the shot is lost and not the whole line as well.

Loosely flake the shot line into large bucket on the boat from the buoyed end first. If deco dives being planned and stage cylinders are required, fix a karabiner to the line at the required stop depths.

Another common practice is to tie a thin strong rope (waster) to the bottom of the shot line. The first divers down can then tie this to the wreck. This will stop the shot being pulled off and the waster will break with a strong pull to allow shot to be retrieved from boat.

Another technique is for the last divers in, is to attach a partially filled lifting bag to the shot to provide lift to the shot, making its retrieval much easier. Care must be taken not to add too much buoyancy otherwise it may result in the shot making its own ascent.

Preparing a break- free anchor

There are some situations where it essential to anchor firmly but there is always the risk of the anchor getting stuck. A solution to this is to make an anchor break-free. To do this shackle the anchor chain to nose of the anchor.

Run the chain loosely along shaft and fix nearest links to anchor eye with strong cable ties or thin strong cord. The anchor warp is then tied off to the free end of remaining chain as normal. While the anchor in use, the cable ties pull the anchor into the seabed as normal and the anchor bites.

If the anchor sticks fast, pull very hard until the cable ties snap. The chain is then only fixed to nose of anchor, as you pull now you'll be pulling the anchor backwoods, which will pull it free.

Remember never to drop the shot or anchor if divers are below. For further information please see the Combined
Diving Associations, Guidelines for the Safe Operation of Member Club Boats.